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Bird Breeder Hobbyist-1. Page 1 of 2 Pages
INDEX to Bird Breeder Hobbyist-1 Articles Which Stand the Test of Time |
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1A.) "How to Stop Egg-Laying"
Messages In This Digest (1 Message)
Re: Tuca's little surprise--update (Tips to discourage egglaying)
Tue Apr 6, 2010 9:39 pm (PDT)
Hi Teresa,
If Tuca lays an egg in her hidey hole, forget about her leaving it to go to bed -- for about 3 weeks... She'll set (hens "set") on that egg until her instincts clue her that it's a dud. My personal preference is to completely avoid that scenario.
Is there a room without windows in your home? Bathroom, closet? If you can't shorten her daylight hours by closing blinds, drapes, or shutters where she is, you do need to cover her cage and possibly place it in that room. Your goal is 12+ hours of darkness and *quiet.*
Longer photoperiods, plentiful fresh veggies, access to ripe fruits, plus abundant showers, all signal SPRING! to the birds outdoors. Sometimes we inadvertently trigger breeding behavior in our pets by recreating the same environmental stimuli indoors. Not a good thing - unless you *want* them to reproduce...
Does Tuca have access to a cuttlebone (soft side *out* - you'd be amazed at how many people do that backwards) or eat pellets? Both are good sources of calcium, although I wouldn't expect her to have a deficiency after only one egg.
But one thing you can do... will she eat boiled egg? Mash the egg - shell and all - and offer about a teaspoon of it to her. The shell is the important part for her to eat. This can also be mixed into her soft food or baked in birdie bread.
Alternately, crack an egg (scramble it, make birdie bread, discard it, whatever) and save the shell. Wash it, removing the membrane. Microwave the cleaned shell for about 30 seconds. After it cools completely, offer it to Tuca. They'll usually eat at least some of it.
When you handle her, scritch only her head and neck, and avoid stroking her back, sides, under her wings, etc. That can be misconstrued by Little Miss Hormonal. And when she ducks her head and raises her tail - calmly return her to her cage until her mood changes.
After this egg-laying ordeal has passed, discourage visits to her hidey hole. That triggers instincts that don't need to be encouraged in a pet bird. Maybe she'd like a new playstand? Something out in the open...
Sorry this is so long. =[
Kathy Houston TX
----- Forwarded Message ----- From: Teresa M. Subject: Tuca's little surprise--update
From: Teresa M. Subject: Tuca's little surprise
Hi all--
Well Diane, you got your wish... Tuca laid an egg last night! I was holding her on my hand while she took a drink of water from the bathroom sink. She stopped sipping and looked like she had to potty, so I held her over the sink (better there, than on my pants leg, right?!). Well, I sure as heck was surprised when she produced an egg.
She has been very sexy lately, and as noted, her droppings have been very loose (thanks to all who responded). And like Diane said, she does have access to a sort of private hidey-hole on the bookshelf. I checked that area carefully this morning, and there are no more eggs (thankfully). I'm going to call the vet this morning to see what he advises, but I expect he'll just tell me to not allow her to go into her hidey hole.
If anyone had advice, let me know... this is a new one for me. Guess it's confirmed that she's a girl, though; I never had her tested.
Teresa and Tuca
Thanks for all the notes on our little blessed event here; like Cindy and Debra said, the Easter bunny was a little late coming to our house. Michael, no, she does not have a boyfriend, so these eggs are not gonna hatch (or if they do, we are dealing with something entirely celestial here). I spoke with the vet today, and he said that as long as she is not having problems, I should not disrupt her routine. He said it's OK for her to go into her hidey hole, and if she lays eggs in there (which she tried to do last night; she kept wanting to go in her hidey hole but I didn't let her coz she can be awful hard to get out of there when it's time for bed), I should just leave them in there and let her sit on them. He said she might lay one every other day or every few days, and it could go on for a week or two; or, she might not lay another one. If she is having problems, not eating well, looking sick or anything, then I am to contact him and we'll decide what to do.
His one concern was egg binding (what you described with the conure, Michael--it sometimes happens when they lay too many eggs and they lose so much calcium, the eggs don't have a well formed shell). I know what this is like, since I had a little finch that had terrible problems with egg binding. It is no joke, and I sure hope Tuca does not get into this. I will be keeping an eye on her for signs of this (straining to lay but unable to pass the egg, typically).
He also said that the loose droppings are perfectly normal given the situation, so that was good news. Marjie, I like the idea of shortening her daylight hours.... not sure how to do that, since I don't cover her at night, but I may try to think of a way to do it.
So, all is (apparently) well enough here in Minneapolis. Will keep you posted if Her Highness keeps going. And if they hatch, you will be the very first to know about it, LOL!
Teresa and Tuca, the Easter Bunny Bird
----- Original Message -----
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1B.) "EGG BINDING"
Wed Apr 7, 2010 10:40 am (PDT)
Egg Binding
by Carol Heesen As we move through the breeding season, there is increased discussion of the problem of egg binding. What is egg binding? Egg binding is the inability of a hen to pass a developed or partially developed egg. A partially developed egg can have either a soft shell or no shell. Many cases of egg binding occur when a hen is trying to pass what appears to be a "normal" egg. The inability to pass the egg quickly results in the death of the hen. There are a multitude of theories as to what causes egg binding. Many consider cool temperatures to be the deciding factor. I find this a very questionable theory. Birds in the wild often breed early in the spring while temperatures are still very cool and yet do not suffer from egg binding. I personally have Goulds successfully breeding in my outdoor flights when temperatures are down in the low to mid 40s. Despite raising hundreds of birds in cool conditions, I have not had a hen experience egg binding. Another common theory is that the hen is too young. In parrots and budgies, where the bird continues to grow in size for 2 or more years, this may often be the case. The poor hen has just not grown sufficiently to allow the easy passage of the developed egg. Finches and canaries, however, grow and mature very quickly. Most have reached full adult size by the time they reach 4 months of age. In the wild, Goulds have often been observed raising chicks before they have even molted into their adult colors. I have observed this same phenomenon in my own flights when I have been a bit slow in separating my maturing juveniles. Let me be quick to point out that I am not advocating breeding very young birds. The offspring of early breeding are not of the same quality as later breedings. It is best, I believe, to allow our birds to become older before attempting breeding. My point is only that early breeding does not, in my experience, result in egg binding. Another common theory is that egg binding is the result of lack of calcium in the diet. Most of us offer a variety of calcium sources to our birds (egg shell, cuttlebone, oyster shell) and yet hens still die from egg binding. I do believe nutrition is at the root of this problem. Most bird breeders are careful to offer a variety of calcium sources. Rather, I believe, the problem is the inability of the bird to metabolize the calcium that is readily available in the diet. The other major cause is poor condition of the mucus membranes in the vent area. Let's look at each of these issues separately. SOURCE: From http://birds2grow.com/art-eggbinding.html Calcium is used by the body to not only form the shell of the developing egg and maintain strong bones, but is also crucial in the proper functioning of the muscles. While it does take a large amount of calcium to form an egg shell, the hen also needs calcium for the muscle action needed to expel the egg. Vitamin d3 is crucial in the absorption of calcium. Without it, all that good calcium we offer our birds passes right through the body without being absorbed. In outdoor flights, our birds are able to produce d3 via a chemical reaction to sunlight. In indoor flights, they are unable to do this. Sunlight through a window is not sufficient. The ultraviolet light needed does not pass through window glass. Full spectrum lights can help but some studies have shown that the ultraviolet is only at sufficient levels at less than one foot from the light source. For inside birds, a d3 supplement is almost always helpful. An excess of phosphorous, can also interfere with the absorption of calcium. According to Robert Black, plant materials (like all those wonderful seeds we feed our birds, contain an abundance of phosphorous. Animal products like egg foods, insect foods and mealworm, contain an abundance of calcium. By serving both plant and animal products to our birds, we are able to keep the calcium/phosphorous ratio in balance. Some of those yummy greens we offer can also interfere with calcium absorption. Oxalic acid found in spinach, beet greens, chard and rhubarb reacts with the calcium so that it can not be absorbed. While these greens are rich in a number of nutrients, it is important to feed them in small amounts and provide extra calcium when doing so. In order to pass a developed egg, the mucus membranes around the vent must be soft and flexible. It is the fat based vitamins that are primarily responsible for this condition, most notably linoleic acid (Vitamin F) and Vitamin A. Without these essential nutrients, the oviduct becomes dry and hard. Most avian vitamins do not include the fat based vitamins, so it is important to supply a separate source for these vital nutrients. These essential fatty vitamins can be found in many of the oily seeds such as safflower seed, sunflower seed, and niger seed. I have found niger seed the easiest for finches to accept. Sunflower or safflower seed works well for larger birds. If you do have a bird suffering from egg binding there are some things you can do. * First and foremost, a warm, quiet environment will allow the bird to focus it's reserves on passing the egg rather than keeping warm. * An immediate increase in calcium will do nothing to harden the shell of an already formed egg but will do wonders in improving the muscle action needed to expel the egg. Calciboost, provides not only the calcium, but also the d3 needed to absorb the calcium. It can be served in the drinking water or sprouted seed if the bird is still eating and drinking. If the bird has stopped eating and drinking, it can be administered directly into the crop. Survive can also be administered to keep energy reserves up while the bird works at passing the egg. * massaging a small amount of vegetable oil around the vent will help soften the mucus membranes around the vent and help the hen pass the egg. When doing this, EXTREME care must be taken to not break the fragile egg inside as this can lead to severe infection. Once the egg has passed, the bird will appear to have made a complete recovery. It is now time to assess the nutritional problems that caused this problem in the first place. It is dangerous to attempt to breed this hen again until the nutritional deficiencies have been addressed.
SOURCE: http://birds2grow.com/art-eggbinding.html
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1C.) "Exchangeable Calcium" by Tom Riggs and Ross Bishop Calcium is not only necessary for bone and egg formation but also for normal cellular physiology. This is important to remember: All muscle contractions including those of the heart are dependent on normal levels of calcium in the body. Calcium comes in two basic forms - water soluble (bicarbonate) and carbonate. The water soluble (bocarbonate) forms are mostly found in fruits and vegetables. This calcium is readily absorbed and used. The carbonated form is mostly found in things like eggshell, cuttlebone and grit. Unfortunately, this carbonated form of calcium although abundant and inexpensive, is not easily assimilated. Most of that calcium that a bird consumes goes straight through the gut, out the tailpipe and onto the cage floor. To speak of it in a more dignified way, the intestines do not readily absorb carbonated calcium very well. Incidentally, stress and inactivity (small cages) also deplete calcium levels in the body. Vitamin D3 is necessary for the bird to absorb calcium. Vitamin D3 must be converted over a two day process in the liver and kidneys to ultimately form a calcium binding protein. Therefore normal liver and kidney function are also necessary for the proper absorption of calcium. The rate of calcium absorption is directly proportional to the quantity of this calcium binding protein in the intestinal cells. Of interest to bird breeders is exchangeable calcium. This is calcium salt deposited in bones which can readily enter the blood stream in times of need, such as egg laying. A hen cannot physically ingest enough calcium in a 24 hour period to compensate for the formation of an eggshell. Therefore her body must pull calcium reserves from her bones & tissue. If her body is already low in calcium, her muscles will not be able to respond, i.e. she will not be able to fly, and will "eggbind." In humans, low calcium levels causes cramping and a failure of muscle function. That's why you find eggbound hens sitting in the bottom of the cage. They cannot fly. The hen will also be in a highly stressed condition. However, the term "eggbinding" is something of a misnomer. The truth is, the egg is just sitting there, but the hen does not have the ability to contract her muscles and expel it (no small task in itself). A dose of absorbable liquid calcium will bring almost immediate results. The need for good levels of calcium in the body is why it is critical to only breed mature hens in good condition and to feed and exercise them properly several months prior to breeding. Immature and poorly conditioned hens will not have adequate body calcium reserves resulting in hypocalcemia (low blood levels of calcium), i.e. eggbinding. I mentioned that some dark, leafy greens interfere with the absorption of calcium. In "Calcium in Cage Bird Nutrition" Robert Black writes "Another acid that goes by the name of oxalic acid is found in spinach, beet greens, chard, and rhubarb. Oxalic acid in the digestive tract combines with calcium to form a compound called calcium oxalate. The body cannot absorb this compound through the intestinal walls, and it passes through the digestive system and is excreted. Any breeder who regularly feeds any of these vegetables to the birds is likely to note calcium problems in the flock." Dark leafy greens are such good sources of nutrition it is difficult to recommend that you not feed oxalated ones to your birds. But, if you chose to, it is important that you not overfeed them, because you will create problems. What's too much? That is the dilemma. The amount of oxalate in a plant varies considerably on growing conditions and whether it is raw or cooked (cooked foods are higher). My choice is to avoid these greens (spinach, chard, beet greens, parsley and rhubarb (which is toxic anyway) because there are acceptable substitutes available such as dandelion, collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, chicory, broccoli, egg shells, cuttlebone, mineral block, brewer's yeast, oats and kelp. If you are looking for a supplement beside good diet, the best calcium to look for is calcium/magnesium liquid. This means it is water soluble. Also look for a supplement that contains calcium lactate, gluconate and citrate because it will be even more absorbable. Copyright © 1999 National Finch and Softbill Society 
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1D.) "Calcium in Cage Bird Nutrition"
Wed Apr 7, 2010 10:42 am (PDT)
Calcium in Cage Bird Nutrition
by Robert G. Black Much of the knowledge of calcium is based on animal studies and on studies in human nutrition. Little research has been done on birds in general, and all of that has been aimed at the nutritional requirements for commercial poultry production. The only research relating to cage birds is the trial and error feeding that we all employ in trying to keep our birds in perfect health and breeding condition. Yet, because the use of calcium in all living bodies is so similar, we can confidently apply what has been learned in the study of calcium metabolism in humans and laboratory animals to our cage birds, as well. Over 90% of the calcium in the body of a bird is in the bird's bones. The bones are also a storage area for extra calcium and phosphorus, and the body can withdraw these minerals from the bones whenever other areas of the body require extra calcium for normal functioning. The maintenance of normal muscle functions is one area that may demand extra calcium in order for a hen to have the necessary muscle functioning to push an egg out through the oviduct. Calcium is always found in the muscles and organs of the body. Along with sodium and potassium, calcium controls the heartbeat, the constant contraction and relaxation of the heart muscle to force blood through the body. It is also essential for the maintenance of the body's acid-base equilibrium and for the contraction and relaxation of other muscle fibers in the body. Calcium also is necessary for the activation of the enzymes necessary for the metabolism of carbohydrates, fats, and proteins for energy. In addition, calcium is vital for the formation and breakdown of a substance technically called acetylcholine, which is necessary for the transmission of nerve impulses from one nerve fiber to the next.
Calcium is also required for the absorption of cobalamin, or vitamin B12 in the digestive tract. In cage birds, of course, calcium is a vital component of the eggshell, and any problem that interferes with calcium absorption or utilization in the body of the hen will result in thin-shelled or soft-shelled eggs as a prominent symptom. Clutches that are smaller than normal can also be a symptom of poor calcium absorption. The need for calcium in cage bird diets is well known, and cuttlebone and mineral blocks have been a standard part of cage bird feeding for many years. Cuttlebone is particularly good, as it contains a variety of trace elements that the cuttlefish has extracted from the seawater that are vital for the health of all cage birds. Whenever you make boiled eggs, crush the leftover eggshells and feed them separately to your cage birds as an excellent and free calcium source. Once you have supplied these calcium sources to your birds, watch them closely to be sure that they are actually eating what you provide. So often, birds will ignore even the most nutritious items and will eat only the few items with which they are familiar. Is this really so different from the people who will go into a Chinese restaurant that offers dozens of exquisite and delicious dishes and then order a hamburger? Birds will react to new foods in the same manner. The birds must be eating at least one item that is rich in calcium in order to get the benefit from it, so be sure that your birds are eating the offerings that you provide. If you determine that the birds are not yet eating the foods you have provided, place the new food scattered on the floor of a clean cage, removing all other foods at the same time. When the birds get hungry, soon they will begin searching around for anything that looks like it might be food. Sooner or later, they will test anything, including these new foods. After they have eaten a little, return their normal foods along with some of the new items you are introducing. Within a couple of days, most of the birds will be eating these new foods regularly, along with their other usual food items. Never let them go without food to the point of severe stress and puffiness. In birds this small, these first symptoms of starvation will occur within a few hours. Their high body temperatures and very high rates of metabolism require a continual supply of food all through the day to supply the energy for the day's activities and to build up an energy reserve for the coming night. Always return all accustomed foods by late afternoon so that the birds can eat their fill and build up their reserves for the night. Healthy finches will not be harmed by this acclimation process in the least, but it goes without saying that you should be quite careful in using this method with birds that are already suffering from severe malnutrition. Once the birds are eating a calcium-rich food regularly, the next hurdle in the nutritional process is absorption. Calcium is absorbed primarily from the acid mixture that leaves the stomach and flows into the duodenum, the small intestine. Once this mass becomes alkaline, calcium absorption is reduced drastically. The presence of fats at the same time will also interfere with the absorption of calcium. A variety of other factors will also slow or prevent calcium absorption in the bird's body. As an example, the cereal grains contain a natural substance called phytic acid which combines with phosphorus to form phytates. These phytates inhibit calcium absorp-tion, and since cereal grains form a substantial portion of the commercial feed and seed mixes, this antagonism can result in a very poor absorption rate for the calcium consumed by the birds on any diet that is high in cereal grains.
Another acid that goes by the name ofoxalic acid is found in spinach, beet greens, chard, and rhubarb. Oxalic acid in the digestive tract combines with calcium to form a compound called calcium oxalate. The body cannot absorb this compound through the intestinal walls, and it passes through the digestive system and is excreted. Any breeder who regularly feeds any of these vegetables to the birds is likely to note calcium problems in the flock. Vitamin D Now we come to the most likely nutritional problem that will affect the absorption of calcium in the bird's digestive system. That is the deficiency of vitamin D in the birds' diet. After protein deficiency and vitamin A deficiency, a lack of sufficient vitamin D in the diet of cage birds is probably the third most common deficiency noted in their feeding. There are two primary forms of vitamin D in nature. The first has been classified as vitamin D2, with the technical name of ergocalciferol. This form of vitamin D is easily used by dogs, humans and most mammals, but it cannot be used by birds. Vitamin D2 occurs mainly in plant sources in nature. Thus, any bird diet that is composed solely of plant products, such as seeds, greens, fruits, vegetables, etc., will not contain any vitamin D that is useful for the birds. Any bird that is maintained on a diet that contains only vitamin D2 will soon suffer from the symptoms caused by vitamin D deficiency, primarily failure to absorb the available calcium in the diet. For birds, only the form of this vitamin called cholecalciferol orvitamin D3 is biologically available. Vitamin D3 is found only in animal products such as eggs, milk, insects, and liver. Since this is the only form that birds can use, a seed diet must contain a food from an animal source rich in vitamin D3 to provide enough of this vitamin for the birds' health and reproduction. Any birds that are exposed to direct sunlight for at least an hour a day will be able to synthesize their own vitamin D on the skin. There are a variety of symptoms of vitamin D deficiency in cage birds, most of them related to calcium. In addition to the soft bones of rickets, in birds thin-shelled and soft-shelled eggs will be a prominent symptom. Clutches that are smaller than normal will also be a symptom of too little vitamin D in the diet. Vitamin D3 is crucial to the absorption of calcium in the digestive tract, and any problem with the absorption of calcium may be caused by vitamin D deficiency. Also, eggs laid by the birds that lack sufficient vitamin D will fail to hatch. At one point in my early breeding efforts, after reading of the beneficial effect of vitamin D for eggshell formation and calcium use in the avian body, I began supplementing my birds' diets with additional powdered vitamin D3 each day. I was totally unprepared for the result. In a birdroom with about 80 pairs of finches, the next clutches laid increased in size by as much as 50%. In other words, the birds that had laid four eggs began laying six, those laying five eggs began laying seven or eight, and those already laying seven eggs began laying 10 eggs per clutch. The additional vitamin D in the diet had made the hens' absorption and utilization of calcium so much easier that the clutch size had increased dramatically. In any case of poor utilization of calcium in the diet, always suspect a serious deficiency of vitamin D3 first. Keep in mind that any diet that is exclusively plant products, with no vitamin supplement that contains vitamin D3 added, will be totally lacking in this vitamin. The result in hens will be thin-shelled or soft-shelled eggs. In babies, the bones will not harden, but will remain soft and pliable, unable to support the weight of the bird. The commercial poultry starters, game bird starters, cage bird crumbles and pellets, all will contain adequate amounts of vitamin D3 for the birds' health. Even monkey pellets contain vitamin D3, since the monkeys from the Americas also must have this form of vitamin D in their diets. If you plan to try any type of dog or cat food for your birds, be sure to check the label carefully, however. Dogs and cats can use vitamin D2 in their metabolism quite effectively, and many dog and cat foods do not contain vitamin D3. Never forget that for birds the only metabolically active form of vitamin D is vitamin D3. Phosphorus Thus far, a number of nutrients have been mentioned that will affect the absorption and utilization of calcium in the avian body, but the most significant has not yet been mentioned. That is phosphorus. Everywhere in the body, calcium and phosphorus work together. In the bones, approximately two parts of calcium join with one part phosphorus and other minerals, along with several vitamins, to form the honeycomb structure of the bones. This ratio also needs to be maintained in the other areas of the body for the best and most effective functioning of all of the body's organs. A problem will arise if the proportions of phosphorus in the body are greater than the calcium, as this is sure to interfere with the normal use of calcium. It is for this reason that I always recommend keeping a calcium source in front of the birds. An available calcium source is always necessary for cage birds because most plant foods are very high in phosphorus, while the bird's body needs a much higher proportion of calcium. This additional calcium available constantly is crucially important to enable the birds to balance the calcium/phosphorus ratio in their diets and in their bodies. They will eat this calcium supplement instinctively whenever they feel the need to balance their intake of calcium and phosphorus. If you supply crushed eggshells or any other calcium source free choice to the birds, you can be certain that they will not eat too much of it. But their instinctive craving will cause them to eat what is needed each day to balance their intake of calcium with the high percentage of phosphorus in plant food items. In summary of the information presented here, calcium is vital for the health and well-being of your cage birds. However, though an actual deficiency is impossible, calcium absorption and use can be severely limited and even eliminated by the presence or absence of a variety of other minerals and compounds. Be sure your birds are getting enough vitamin D3 for the absorption of calcium, keep a calcium source available for them at all times so they may balance their own needs for it as the other nutrients are consumed, and you should have no further problems relating to calcium in the care and maintenance of your cage birds. Copyright 1998
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1E.) "The Monthly National Legislation Report" -
Wed Apr 7, 2010 11:38 am (PDT)
The Monthly National Legislation Report is published once a month listing available reports of dog and animal legislation in all states and other countries. ( http://mnlreport.typepad.com/the_monthly_national_legi/ ) http://mnlreport.typepad.com/the_monthly_national_legi Kathy Houston TX
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